Quiero Más Purpurina: Carnaval in Tenerife
- Sadie Williams
- Apr 9, 2019
- 3 min read
The Spanish love a good party, and the party on the islands is Carnaval. Carnaval is huge throughout the Latino and Hispanic world, with some of the most famous celebrations happening in Rio, Brazil, and (it just so happens) the Canary Islands. While it is traditionally celebrated right before Lent, here on the islands we drag it out for a whole lot longer than mere day. In Santa Cruz de Tenerife, one of the biggest cities on the capital island of Tenerife, Carnaval is celebrated for well over two weeks.
I had the opportunity to go to the famed Santa Cruz Carnaval, which was one great big party "under the sea" :D I had a fabulous time, although it had a bit of a different vibe than our celebration on El Hierro.

In Santa Cruz, there are adult queens of Carnaval who are voted on (and sponsored by major businesses like McDonalds and major banks). They go to a gala, present their very elaborate parade floats, and sing or lip sync. Check out some professional pictures of these beautiful ladies below, courtesy of the official Santa Cruz de Tenerife website.
There is of course a parade during the first major night of Carnaval, featuring local dancers, musicians, social organizations, and random people who just really get into the spirit of Carnaval. Lots of people dress up as groups (with themed outfits like scuba divers or clowns), design giant, elaborate floats with theme music, and dance along to the drums throughout the streets of Santa Cruz. The theme of this year was "Under the Sea", although you will see that that is somewhat loosely interpreted by many. I learned that Canarios celebrating Carnaval love:
Men dressed up as women
Wigs
GLITTER
Jewels
Face paint
Elaborate headpieces
Wide-hipped costumes
The costumes were absolutely stunning, and we danced along with the millions of people having a grand old time throughout the city, all night long.
More pictures from the official photographer, as well as many of my own.
Check out some of my favorite videos of the parade below. I loved the shark costumes, the queen floats, and the Alice in Wonderland costumes.
The next night, we did it all again. There wasn't an official parade this time, but most of downtown was shut off to traffic (and public transportation) to transform into one giant dance floor, with different bars sponsoring different DJs so you could wander from street to street and decide which music you liked best.
We also got these great cups (seen first on the right below) which were a grand achievement. It is a reusable cup on a lanyard, with the Santa Cruz Carnaval logo on it, so you can drink and dance at the same time. A very creative invention, suited very well to this event. :) We had to make a pledge to not touch another plastic cup during all of Carnaval to obtain it, to a very enthusiastic clown. :D My pride and joy.
The costumes were absolutely fantastic. Lots of men dressed as women, lots of mermaids, some bananas, and one creative mailman on a cardboard scooter.
Some of the floats were incredible! No last-minute dressed-up pickups here, many floats lit up, moved, and (most astonishingly) were physically dragged or carried by an army of dancers. Most were easily the size of a small house.
The third day, we went to day Carnaval! This had a little bit of a different energy, with lots of families, babies, and dogs eating, drinking, and dancing. There was lots of food, a giant stage set up with live performances, many street performers and artists, and of course more stunning costumes. People really go all-out on their outfits.
More great costumes, an absolutely massive pan of paella, sausage, and barbecue, and sunshine!
The friend I was staying with had a roommate who was in this creative drumline, so we got to see this interesting and dynamic performance.
Tenerife Carnaval was very different than El Hierro's, but I am so glad I got to go! The people watching was out of this world, and it was a fantastic experience. The Spanish really do know how to have a good time. :D
¡Hasta la próxima!
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